Two weeks, two islands, seven UNESCO World Heritage sites. My trip through Bali and Java was different from the typical beach-hopping routes. I rappelled 60 meters into the earth, wandered through centuries-old temple complexes, and learned more about Indonesia in Yogyakarta than in 10 days at the beach.
The most surprising part? Java wasn’t just a side trip – it was the highlight.
After deciding to switch from full-time employment to self-employment, I had the luxury of using my remaining vacation days for a few weeks in Bali to wind down and mentally prepare for my new professional life. The journey from Tokyo via Hanoi took about 20 hours. But since I would get bored just chilling on the beach every day, I had a plan: get my PADI diving certification, see Prambanan and Borobudur, and find out if Canggu is really the digital nomad paradise everyone talks about. What I didn’t expect: The three days on Java were the cultural heart of this 2-week itinerary.
Quick Overview: The Route in Detail
- Route: Sanur → Amed (Diving) → Ubud → Uluwatu → Yogyakarta/Java → Canggu
- Duration: 17 days (June 10-26, 2025)
- Budget: ~$1750 for 2 people (approx. $103/day per person)
- Style: Budget backpacking with remote work breaks
- Highlights: PADI Open Water Course, USAT Liberty Wreck, Prambanan & Borobudur, Jomblang Cave
Who is this route for?
✅ Culture enthusiasts (UNESCO sites instead of party beaches)
✅ Divers or aspiring divers
✅ People who want to experience authentic Indonesia
✅ Digital nomads with realistic expectations
❌ Less suitable for: Luxury travelers, party people (→ Seminyak/Kuta), pure beach fans
Stop 1: Sanur (3 Days) – Arrival Without Chaos
After 20+ hours of travel, I needed one thing above all: peace and comfort. No scooter hell, no Instagram frenzy. Sanur was the perfect choice for the first few days.
Why Start in Sanur?
While researching the route, Sanur seemed relaxed, less touristy, yet with good infrastructure. And it delivered. You can explore the beach promenade entirely on foot, there are authentic warungs instead of styled-up cafés, and best of all: you can actually relax without constantly being approached by vendors. It didn’t feel ultra-authentically “Bali” anymore, but it was definitely peaceful and seemed very family-friendly compared to other places.
Accommodation: Palette Signature Hotel*
Cost: $76 for 3 nights (2 people)
Key Takeaways:
- ✅ Clean, centrally located, good value for money
- ✅ Pool to cool down after the long-haul flight
- ❌ Directly on a busy street (significant traffic noise)
Tip: Definitely ask for a room facing the back – it makes a huge difference for sleep quality.
What We Did in Sanur
Day 1: Arrival & Accepting Jetlag
Honestly? Not much. Checked in, strolled to the pool, and wasted the rest of the day. Sounds like lost time, but in hindsight, it was exactly right. The body just needs a break after a flight like that.
Day 2: Massimo Italian Restaurant – A Culinary Highlight
Italian in Bali? Sounds weird, but Massimo is an institution. The restaurant is so famous you have to reserve even on weekdays. We were lucky and got a table.
Cost: ~$70 for 2 people (Pasta, Pizza, Dessert, Drinks)
Was it worth it? Absolutely. Especially after spending a long time in Asia, enjoying a delicious Italian dinner is glorious. The quality is impressive – fresh pasta, crispy pizza base, and super friendly staff. The shift manager, in particular, gave her all to ensure guests had a great evening. Granted, it was full, and we had to wait a bit at times, but we were extremely well looked after.
Day 3: Local Food & Beach
We took it easier on the third day. Morning at the beach, lunch at Warung Blanjong, afternoon back at the pool. Sounds unspectacular, but it was exactly what we needed. Plus, I had already started the theory for the diving course, as you have to study a few hours of theory for the Open Water certification. Luckily, this can be done easily online (in German or English).
Sanur for Remote Workers: What Works
WiFi is, of course, a topic. In the Palette Signature Hotel*, the connection was okay – not spectacular, but sufficient for emails and video calls. A good spot to get some work done was the Genius Cafe right on the beach. Prices are more European, but there’s enough seating, nobody looked at us funny for staying longer, and the WiFi was solid. Only downside: The background music can be distracting depending on the time of day if you want to focus.
Cost Overview Sanur (3 Days, 2 People)
- Accommodation: $76
- Food: ~$105 (incl. Massimo)
- Drinks & Snacks: ~$12
- Transport (Grab to/from airport): ~$17
- Total: ~$210
Per Person/Day: ~$35
My Sanur Verdict: The Perfect Soft Start
Sanur was just right for arriving. No sensory overload, no stress, just relaxing and acclimatizing. After a stressful time at work, followed by the long flight to Bali, Sanur was the perfect start.
Would I go back? Yes, but not for much longer than 3 days. It’s a perfect stopover, but for a whole week, it would be too quiet for me. It’s a good family destination though, there were many families with little kids.
Stop 2: Amed (4 Days) – PADI Open Water Course
It’s about a 2.5-hour drive from Sanur to Amed – and it feels like arriving in a completely different Bali. Away from the wide roads and hotels, towards small fishing villages, black volcanic beaches, and a tranquility you won’t find in the south of the island anymore.
Why Amed? The PADI Open Water Course
The main reason for Amed was clear: I wanted to finally get my PADI Open Water certification. After years of putting it off, the opportunity had finally arrived. And Bali – specifically Amed – is considered one of the best places for it: good visibility, calm water for beginners, and with the USAT Liberty wreck in Tulamben, one of the most spectacular dive sites in Southeast Asia.
Dive School: Bali Reef Divers
Accommodation: Kura Kura Divers Lodge* (belongs to the dive school)
Accommodation Cost: $109 for 3 nights (2 people)
Included: Breakfast, direct access to the dive center
The Kura Kura Lodge was perfect: Modern, clean, with an international crowd but without the party hostel vibe. The breakfast was really tasty, and the location right at the dive center meant: Wake up, breakfast, and 5 minutes later you’re heading to the beach with your gear.
PADI Open Water Bali: The 4-Day Course
Honestly, I was pretty nervous before the course. I had gone through the online training in the PADI app extremely thoroughly the week before, but how it would work practically was still partly unclear to me. Spoiler: It was much easier than expected – at least in the beginning.
Our Instructor: Ben, a Frenchman about our age who has lived in Bali for 8 years and has been diving for 2. Relaxed, patient, and with a way of explaining that makes complicated things seem simple.
Day 1: Pool training & first dives in Jemeluk (max 12m). The feeling of the first breath underwater? Surreal.
Day 2: Pool exercises & “Pyramids” dive site (18m). First encounter with current – exhausting but instructive.
Day 3: Two more open water dives.
Day 4: The Highlight – USAT Liberty Wreck.
18 meters deep, 40 minutes dive time. Swimming between rusty ship parts while tropical fish circle around – that was surreal. But: Towards the end, it got tough. The current was stronger than expected, and I was pretty beat.
Cost: ~$400 per person (incl. gear & certification).
Worth it? Absolutely. It’s a certification for life and a whole new perspective on the world.
→ More details on the dive course: From Surface to Depths: My PADI Open Water Course in Amed
Bonus: Pura Lempuyang Temple
After a relaxed dive day, my travel partner had a plan: “Let’s drive to Pura Lempuyang, that’s the famous temple with the photo spot!”
Pura Lempuyang is THE Instagram spot on Bali – the famous “Gates of Heaven.” The reality? The “water reflection” is a small mirror held under the camera lens by temple staff. I had to laugh when I saw it. It’s clever, though.
Critical mistake on our part: Do NOT drive into the mountains immediately after diving (decompression!). The temple is at about 600 meters altitude. Luckily nothing happened to us, but it was definitely stupid.
→ More on Pura Lempuyang: Instagram vs. Reality: The Truth Behind Bali’s Most Famous Photo Spot
Cost Overview Amed (4 Days, 2 People)
- Accommodation: $109
- PADI Course: ~$800
- Food & Drinks: ~$41
- Transport & Entry: ~$34
- Total: ~$984
My Amed Verdict: The authentic Bali. Quiet, genuine, world-class diving. I would definitely come back.
Stop 3: Ubud (1 Day) – Stopover
From Amed to Uluwatu would have been a long drive, so we stopped in Ubud for a night. We’d been there before, so the plan was just to breathe and reminisce.
Accommodation: Alam Terrace Cottages* ($33/night). Secluded, idyllic, perfect break.
Verdict: Beautiful but touristy. If you have time: stay 2-3 days. If not: focus on Amed or Java.
Stop 4: Uluwatu (3 Days) – Cliffs & Disillusionment
Uluwatu sounds like dream beaches and spectacular cliffs. And yes, both exist. But there are also: Resort prices, lack of infrastructure, and the feeling of being stuck in a tourist bubble.
Accommodation: Balangan Sea View Bungalow* ($150/3 nights).
The Problem: Right at Balangan Beach – sounds great, but without a scooter, you can’t go anywhere. No supermarket nearby, no warung around the corner. You are “trapped” in the resort price universe.
Uluwatu for Remote Workers
The Space Bali was a really solid coworking space – good WiFi, quiet, air-conditioned. Good for focused work.
My Uluwatu Verdict: Beautiful but overrated
Nice cliffs and sunsets, but expensive and restricted infrastructure. Next time, I definitely wouldn’t stay at Balangan Beach anymore.
Stop 5: Yogyakarta on Java (3 Days) – The Highlight
From Uluwatu, we went to Yogyakarta on Java for 3 days. And I have to be honest: The 3 days in Java were the absolute highlight of the trip.
Why Yogyakarta? Because UNESCO World Heritage sites Prambanan and Borobudur were on my bucket list. Just a 1-hour flight from Bali.
Flight: Bali → Yogyakarta* – $330 for 2 (Return)
Accommodation: Wonderloft Hostel Jogja* – $41 for 2 nights.
What we did:
- Prambanan Temple: Hindu complex from the 9th century. Mystical in the rain. Tried Gudeg (Jackfruit stew) on Malioboro Street.
- Mount Merapi Jeep Tour: Visited the Kaliadem bunker. Sobering history.
- Borobudur: Largest Buddhist monument in the world at sunset. Magical.
- Jomblang Cave: Rappelling 60 meters down for the “Heavenly Light.”
→ Cave Experience: Jomblang Cave: An Amazing Goodbye to Java
Java Costs (3 Days, 2 People): Total ~$662 (incl. flights & expensive tours).
Verdict: Java was authentic. Less tourist hustle, more real Indonesia. If you only have 2 weeks, take 3 days for Java.
Stop 6: Canggu (4 Days) – Digital Nomad Reality Check
Back to Bali, this time Canggu – the alleged “Digital Nomad Paradise.”
Accommodation: Koa D Surfer Hotel* (~$140/4 nights).
Canggu Reality
- Good: International vibes, great cafés, activities like Floating at Solace Float.
- Bad: Traffic chaos, European prices ($43 for pasta!), little authentic Indonesia.
My Verdict: Interesting for 2-3 days as a contrast. Good for work, but don’t expect the “real” Bali here.
Budget Breakdown: What does it really cost?
Total costs for 2 people, 17 days:
| Category | Cost ($) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Flights (Intl & Domestic) | ~$1100 | Biggest factor |
| Tokyo → Bali (One Way) | ~$362 | |
| Bali → Osaka (Return) | ~$410 | Wedding in Kyoto afterwards |
| Bali ↔ Yogyakarta | $328 | Domestic return |
| Accommodation (16 nights) | ~$726 | Mostly twin/double rooms |
| Food & Drink | ~$400 | Warungs & Restaurants |
| Activities | ~$1195 | |
| of which PADI Course | ~$820 | One-time investment |
| Transport (Local) | ~$91 | Grab, Scooter |
| TOTAL | ~$3512 | For 2 People |
Cost per person: approx. $1750 for 17 days.
Ø Cost per day/person: approx. $103.
(Without the expensive dive course and international flights, the pure “living cost average” on site would be a very affordable ~$41 per day/person.)
Conclusion
After 17 days, two islands, and more temples than I can count, my honest conclusion is: This trip was different than expected – and exactly perfect because of it.
Takeaways:
- Java thrilled me more than Bali.
- Amed is the place for peace and diving.
- Canggu is hyped, but okay for work.
What I would change: More time in Amed and Yogyakarta, skip staying at Balangan Beach, maybe skip Canggu.
Have you been to Bali or Java? What was your highlight? Share your experiences in the comments!
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